ZOCALO
www.zocalochicago.com
358 W. Ontario, Chicago
312.302.9977
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A+
Cuisine: A+  Ambiance: A  Service: A+

Zocalo , in Mexican parlance, is town square, or plaza. It is the gathering place for locals and tourists alike. Such will likely be the case for this wonderful, new River North restaurant and bar. Upon entering, the hostess’s greeting exudes Mexican hospitality, and the service at table is equally gracious. One feels welcomed as if to someone’s home, not to just a business establishment. The 50-foot walnut bar and the “lofty” dining room are also warm and inviting. All is prelude to some of the most exciting regional Mexican cuisine in our experience.

It is rare that at least one item in a restaurant meal isn’t a weak link. At Zocalo, every dish was stellar. Executive chef Saul Roman is well on his way to setting a new, higher standard for vibrant and authentic Mexican food in Chicago.

Both classic and updated preparations focus on small plates meant for sharing. The menu is divided into many sections. Antojitos (functionally translated as appetizers, $3-10) include trios of both guacamole and tamalitos (homemade tamales), chile ancho rellenos, tacos, and much more. The flautas, filled with pulled chicken in a tomato-chipotle sauce and served over tomatillo-chicken broth, were especially delicious.

Many cazuelas (casseroles; here, small clay pots, $6-8) are made variously with chicken, beef, pork, fish, shellfish, etc. As a Southern boy, I thought I’d eaten the best BBQ pork. Guess I didn’t go far enough south. The cochinita pibil, slowly braised Yucatan-style pork marinated in achiote (AKA annatto), redefines what I think of as BBQ. The cazuela al gu-ajillo (so called because of the “mischievous chili” used in its sauce) is redolent of shrimp, scallops and calamari, and it’s plate-lickin’ good.

Platos fuertes (big plates, $14-22) include an adobo-marinated pork tenderloin (carne al pastor, though this is arguably a dish for royalty, not a simple shepherd’s dish). Never mind that the pork was juicy and tender and flavorful; go straight to the tomatillo sauce with grilled pineapple. Next time I’m there, I want a “Zocalo Maria” (my term) made with this sauce and a shot or two of tequila, over ice! Other large plates offer Cornish hen, skirt steak, beef tenderloin, fish and seafood. The chile relleno, baked in puff pastry, is a show-stopper.

Postres (desserts, $4-5) must be planned for—save room. The flan de cazuela (pumpkin crème brûlée) was perfect. The pastel tres leches was as good as the one this gringo makes at home. The capirotada, a raisin-walnut bread pudding with coconut sauce and goat cheese cinnamon ice cream, brought tears of joy.

A manageable and affordable wine list is offered, as are specialty drinks, tequila flights and beers. The citrus cazuelo is not to be missed. The refreshing Zocalo Flight ($10) is a real bargain: a generous sampling of the Zocalo margarita, citrus cazuela and sangria rosa.

Make sure your next gathering is at Chicago’s very own new River North zocalo, Zocalo Restaurant and Tequila Bar that is.

Open Sunday-Thursday 5:30 p.m. til 10:00 p.m.,
Friday and Saturday 5:30 p.m. til 1:00 a.m.
Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m. til 2:30 p.m.