DEVON SEAFOOD GRILL
www.devonseafood.com
39 E. Chicago Avenue, Chicago
312.440.8660
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A  Ambiance: A  Service: A-

Devon (pronounced like the cream, not the avenue) is younger sib of its Philadelphia predecessor, and soon-to-be big sib to a Milwaukee location, as well as cousin to several other venues in the Devon family. The kitchen of the Chicago venue is under the watchful eye and talented expertise of Executive Chef Mick Verheyen. He delivers on the corporate promise: “freshness you can taste” in product purchased from established purveyors on both coasts, the Pacific Northwest and Hawaii.

Devoted before-dinner cocktail drinkers will be made happy. This place knows that cocktails were never meant to be served in thimbles; these are ample. And beware the temptation delivered to table right from the start: warm, crusty biscuits with a hint of sugar and a cloud-soft interior. Restraint is in order, if you can manage it. But a good drink and a biscuit (or two) will give you time to soak up the sleek, modern interior, warmed with lots of wood and earth tones. The low-level lighting is sexy, but makes reading the small-print menu a challenge, for all with less than 20/10 acuity. But help might be offered: during our visit, lighting was adjusted up and down several times after service began. Catch the wave.

The chef’s tasting menu (39.50) is a real value. The fall version offers a choice of Maine lobster bisque, tuna tartare or house salad to start. The second course offers a choice of: Chilean sea bass with beurre blanc sauce and lobster-and-spinach risotto; or a 6-ounce filet of beef, jumbo lump crab cake, garlic mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus; or 1.25 lbs. Alaskan king crab legs, with drawn butter, Yukon gold potatoes and roasted vegetables. The third course? A sweet ending, with a choice of chocolate velvet cake or crème brûlée.

Chef’s seasonal preparations (22.50-27.50, priced seasonally) included Alaskan halibut with a highly complimentary sweet potato corn hash and corn butter sauce. The halibut was as fresh as promised, and it arrived perfectly translucent but was already opaque when time came for sharing. It’s always a good idea to let your server know your preference for fish—less or more cooked. The kitchen aims to please everyone.

Each night, the numerous fresh-fish offerings are listed (18.50-27.50), along with their locales of origin. Each is served with potatoes of choice and fresh vegetables. Starters (8-13) are plentiful. The jumbo lump crab cakes were as good as they get, as was the tuna tartare (charred, chilled and then diced). The shared sampler is a great alternative (28.50)—a trio of jumbo lump crab cakes, crisp fried calamari, shrimp scampi and three sauces. Homemade soups and salads (6-8.50) deserve attention. The New England clam chowder did honor to its heritage, as did the Maine lobster bisque.

Signature entrées (15.50-36.50) and the steaks, lobster and combinations (28.50-49.50) round out the dizzying array of menu choices, while promising to satisfy the one carnivore in every party. The seared George’s Bank scallops were unctuous, with a caramelized exterior and creamy center. The mustard cream sauce played an appropriately supporting role, while the residual grit from the scallops detracted somewhat.

Desserts (4-7.50) are challenged to rise to the level of finesse found in the savory dishes that come before, but those with a recalcitrant sweet tooth will find satisfaction.

Don’t miss happy hour (at the bar only) M-Sa 4-7 and 9-midnight. There’s a great bar menu, including 1-lb lobster at cost every Wednesday and Thursday. And M-F one of the specialty martinis is offered at $5, instead of the usual $8.50. The wine list is comprehensive, and carefully crafted to take the menu into account. (The Kim Crawford sauvignon blanc from New Zealand was perfect with the crab cakes.)

Our server, with his food and wine knowledge, along with his graciousness, was masterful at soothing vexed nerves. Despite the hostess’s having been told by each of us upon our separate arrivals that we were expecting the other, we were nonetheless seated at two different tables for some time, before we discovered that we were each waiting for the other. We’ll chalk it up to the “settling in” that any new restaurant goes through. The food and table service are reasons enough to recommend that you give Devon a try.

Open Sunday-Thursday 11:00 a.m. til 10:00 p.m.,
Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. til 11:00 p.m.
Bar Monday-Saturday 11:00 a.m. til 2:00 a.m.,
Sunday 11:00 a.m. til 11:00 p.m.
Valet entrance on Wabash