BRASSERIE JO
www.brasseriejo.com
59 W. Hubbard Street, Chicago
312.595.0800
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A  Ambiance: A-  Service: A

Tired of the fusion fads and painterly plates? Want some honest-to-goodness classic French bistro fare? Dépêche-toi! Hurry to Brasserie Jo! It’s the place to relive wonderful hours spent in France, enjoying the best food traditions of the common folk, or a place to discover what all the hoopla is about where brasserie eating is concerned.

Brasserie Jo is the namesake of Chicago’s very own long-time French chef Jean Joho. He is also well established as a master of the glitter and glam of haute cuisine, but he’s never abandoned his Alsatian roots, and his deep knowledge of what made France, arguably, the food capital of the world. The James Beard Foundation recognized Chef Joho’s achievement in 1996 when they bestowed upon Brasserie Jo the “Best New Restaurant of the Year” award. And it’s still the best example of its kind in Chicago.

The problem with dining there has remained the same over all these years: what to order. There are wines galore by the glass, as well as by the bottle some really good regional wines that pair wonderfully well with the food, and that don’t break the bank. There is also a new expanded beer menu, with 20+ on tap—local, domestic and imported. Order a libation, and enjoy the ensuing obsession over the menu.

Hors d’oeuvres (5.95-12.95) can be had warm or cold, or in the form of tartes flambées (classic Alsace-style pizzas) or salades. All are perennial favorites, like onion soup with Gruyère; crêpe with ham, spinach and cheese; escargot; onion tart “Uncle Hansi”; ad infinitum. What couldn’t we pass up? Frog legs Provençal; duck rillettes; the classic tarte flambé with fromage blanc, onion and bacon; and, of course, the frisée salad Lyonnaise with bacon and poached egg. And they were very good choices!

There is a daily Plat du Jour (15.95-29.95) of dishes like veal kidneys, Moroccan style couscous, braised rabbit with mustard sauce, and lobster & seafood bouillabaisse. The menu of Plats Principaux (15.95-29.95) offers fish, steaks and specialties. For us, the sautéed walleyed pike was edged out by the filet of trout Grenobloise with capers and lemon (good choice). Classic steak frites and steak tartare? Hard to pass up, but it was just one meal. The choucroute alsacienne, with cabbage Alsace-style and smoked meats won out. Delicious as it was, some of that went home with us, and I was still wistful about the potato gnocchi Parisienne with bleu cheese and walnuts that I didn’t order. And after all, we had a duty to have dessert.

The crowning glory of desserts (6.95) for me is the best profiteroles in the city: pastry puffs filled with vanilla ice cream topped with warm chocolate sauce. Devotees of crème brûlée or pear Helena coupe or chocolate mousse or…will not be disappointed. Can’t choose? Try Le Grand Dessert Jo (8.95) for an assortment, or the assortment of cheeses (9.95).

You can’t go wrong at Brasserie Jo, whether it’s a trip down memory lane or the new discovery of what has made France’s culinary traditions so beloved—all without leaving your very own city. Bon appétit!

Open Sunday 4:00 p.m. til 9:00 p.m.,
Monday-Thursday 5:00 p.m. til 10:00 p.m.,
Friday and Saturday 5:00 p.m. til 11:00 p.m.
Valet Parking. closed Thanksgiving & Christmas