QUARTINO
www.quartinochicago.com
626 N State St, Chicago
312.698.5000
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A  Ambiance: A-  Service: A

Quartino in Italian suggests a quarter of a bottle of wine. In this new hot spot, 20 of the wines on the list are available only here, by the quartino, and they’re imported directly by the restaurant from the producers in Italy. This offers diners unique samplings at great value. In addition to wines available by the quartino, there’s also a mezzo and litro, as well as extensive offerings by the bottle. The name Quartino also references the national origin of the menu created by Italian-American executive chef John Coletta, one of the city’s preeminent chefs with an international culinary pedigree. Chef Coletta has partnered with the well-known Chicago Gibsons team to create an already-bustling trattoria. Brace yourself for the din, small tables and hard chairs in this very expensively redesigned space. Even so, all is forgiven when Chef Coletta’s food begins to arrive at table as prepared, not coursed, and at bargain prices!

In addition to the full menu, your server will present you with a small salumeria (delicatessen) quartino menu and a pencil, from which you should order a selection of house cured olives ($2), spuntini freddi (cold snacks), salamis (house-made and the best this side of the Atlantic), meats and Italian cheeses ($4 each). Order one each of the 25 offerings, some great Italian wine, and make it a dinner for four! On second thought, restrain yourself (but don’t miss the salumi), and struggle with making choices from a menu brimming with irresistible temptations.

The family-friendly menu offers something for everybody. The six Neopolitan pizzas ($10) are made with Italian flour, San Marzono tomatoes, Parmesan and fresh mozzarella in accordance with D.O.C. regulations. They have a thin, crispy crust and are great for sharing. Where else can you find Italian fondue, with a blend of artisanal cheeses ($8)? Salads are only $5, and pristinely fresh. The tre colore, with Belgium endive, radicchio, wild arugula and spinach is a winner. Grappa-cured salmon, porcini-crusted tuna, and carpaccio of Angus beef ($8) are perennial favorites. The pastas ($7) are made in house. The ravioli, filled with braised pork, speck and fava beans is a personal favorite.

On a recent visit, we relished the risotto Milanese with saffron, white wine, pork stock, cream and Parmigiano-Reggiano. The Tuscan sausage, tomatoes and peas, as well as the asparagus risottos ($7) were equally tempting. The fish dishes ($12) vie for supremacy: poached cod with “acqua pazza” (crazy water) and seared white fish with asparagus puree.

Meat lovers will find their pleasures on the menu, as well ($12). The braised lamb shank with gremolata deserves your attention. So does the crisp duck leg with Tuscan kale and pickled cherries. But you may have a hard time choosing, with the competing pork Florentina, the grilled veal skirt steak and the prime Angus beef tagliata.

If you still have room, there are some tasty desserts ($4). The kitchen serves up the best profiteroles in recent memory—crispy cream puffs that beg to soak up the vanilla gelato and chocolate sauce. Or you may want to try the dessert fondues: chocolate ($9) or caramel ($7) with strawberries, or other fruits ($2) such as apples, pears or pineapple, or biscotti ($4). And if you just want gelati or sorbetti, they’re yours ($3). And any Italian restaurant worth its weight offers a house recipe of limoncello ($3).

Quartino is all about good friends, good food and good wine, a tavola. Portions are small enough to let diners make several choices, but they’re also big enough for sharing. In fact, food is served family style and encourages sharing. Order as much or as little as you want—have it your way. Cin cin!

Open Daily at 11 a.m.; Serving Food till 1 a.m.,
Cocktails till 2 a.m.      Valet Parking $5!