del Toro
www.deltorocafe.com
1520 N Damen, Chicago
773.252.1500
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A Ambiance: A Service: A
Proprietor Terry Alexander and Chef Andrew Zimmerman have taken the bull by the horns at this already-popular transformation of the former MOD restaurant into del Toro. The stunning dining room (designed by Suhail) is a highly stylized bullfight arena—brooding, sensuous, dodgy. For example, the red mosaic tile host stand is reminiscent of a matador’s cape. The lounge area is comfy, done in white and glittery with candles. It’s great for cocktailing and light bites. The center section pays homage to Antonio Gaudi, the leader of the Spanish Art Nouveau movement and is defined by an undulating ceiling, and a curvaceous wall of black tile mosaic, suggestive of a gored bull. The back portion of the dining room is plush, draped in red, floor-to-ceiling, and lit with gorgeous red crystal chandeliers.
Since opening in November ’05, del Toro has played to mixed reviews, but our experience was remarkable. The cuisine is gender-bias free, offering equal opportunities for multiple waves of pleasure. Each dish we tasted reflected the chef’s expert sense of presentation, along with layered and finely balanced flavors, aromas and textures, thus exciting all the senses.
The montadito (Spanish bruschetta) of rosemary grilled chicken livers, sweet onion marmalade and house smoked bacon was flawless. It was hard to pass up the montadito of marinated white anchovy with shaved avocado, spring onion and lemon. The raw shashimi grade scallop with saffron citronette and pepper cress is culinary ecstasy. Patatas bravas, little hollowed out cylinders of fresh potatoes, deep-fried and filled with spicy tomato sauce and aioli could be an all night nosh. Duck leg confit, with lilting orange zest and pungent-salty olives, was crispy, moist and tender. Grilled lamb chops with silken roasted garlic flan and rosemary oil were done to perfection. Every single item on the menu begged for ordering, but alas, there were only two stomachs to give to one evening. Encore!
The menu offers an extensive list of small-to-medium cold and hot plates ($3.50-16). A Spanish cheese course, with up to five offerings, can be had for $5.50, 13.50 or 19 for one, three or five pieces. Postres (desserts, $5.50-7) include wonderful Black Mission figs in red wine with Mahón (cheese) ice cream, sherry syrup and pumpkin seed praline. The Sharffenberger hot chocolate with fresh churros (doughnuts) serves well as combined after-dinner hot beverage and dessert. But who can resist the chocolate truffle terrine with almond nougat ice cream and salted caramel, or the crema catalana, or the hazelnut flan with pumpkin jam and spiced walnuts.
The wine list is replete with selections from Spain, with many great choices by the glass. (Try the Juan Gil red!) A nice selection of after dinner liqueurs, sherries, muscat, ports and cognacs invite lingering after a wonderful meal. Or you can just pop in for a small plate or two and a glass of wine. Chef Andrew raises the bar for tapas in this city.
Su – Th 5-10:30; F+Sa 5-11 (late menu till 1); Su Brunch 10-3
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