AGAMI
4712 N Broadway, Chicago
773.506.1845
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A+
Cuisine: A+ Ambiance: A+ Service:A+

Agami in Japanese means gills of a fish. The restaurant AGAMI to us means delirium! Crossing the threshold from the edgy Uptown street into Agami is akin to Alice’s stepping into a rabbit hole and floating into an amazing wonderland. Every single aesthetic detail is considered in creating this circle-within-a-circle illusion of being beneath the sea. Floor-to-ceiling sea forms, a theme and variations of bubbles, wall-size video aquarium projections, light and shadows that come out of nowhere, a vibrant and rich palette of colors—all abound in Agami. The brilliant design is the product of general partner/designer Jay Baik, whose interior structure maximizes space potential yet allows almost every table a little privacy.

The contemporary sushi menu is created by Chef Soon Park, who has found a coral reef to call home, after years of honing his skills in the heretofore-top sushi houses of Chicago. Now, Agami rules. He set out to design sushi, sashimi and other Japanese dishes so flavorful and perfectly balanced that all but the pedestrian diner will eschew the usual soy sauce and wasabi at table! Signature dishes include nigiri with toppings, makis, spicy tuna rice crispy appetizer, eel garden role and crab korokke. Chef’s specials are also offered frequently.

Appetizers from the “Sushi Bar” (raw) and from the “kitchen” (cooked; $4-13) number 33, plus five salads ($5-14). The Maui Island is a sumptuous mélange of tuna and yellow tail tartare mixed with scallion, minced garlic, black and orange tobiko in citrus spicy mayo sauce. Like all of the other dishes, the simple listing of ingredients belies the magical synergy of Chef Park’s deft hand and palate. We inhaled the cucumber-mint salad with ginger dressing. The beef tataki, once eaten, was like a love object, disappeared and then forever sought after.

The list of nigiri sushi/sashimi ($2-5) and Agami signature nigiri sushi ($2.25-4.25) is extensive, and you can’t go wrong with any choice (although aficionados should not miss the mackerel!). There is also an extensive list of maki “rolled sushi” ($4-8), specialty maki ($11-17) and Agami signature maki ($15-16). Don’t miss the spicy tataki, a whole jumbo soft shell crab with a myriad of flavorings and accompaniments that creates a unique whole. If you want to hone in on a favorite, and delight in a single plate, consider a sushi entrée ($17-34), or a “kitchen” entrée (cooked, $12-25) where those squeamish about raw fish will find delight.

There are liquid accompaniments aplenty! (This is, after all, a sea of delicacies!) Twenty-one martinis are offered, and I intend to work my way through the list on returns visits. But I can’t imagine that my favorite will be unseated: Agami. It’s an unlikely and divine mixture of aloe, vodka and gin. [It transported me instantly to my Georgia childhood, reminding me of the inimitable taste of scuppernongs (AKA scuppadines in regional parlance), which are “cultivated” cousins of the wild muscadine grape.]

A full page of the menu is devoted to sake, junmai and junmai ginjo. Many white and red wines are offered by the glass and bottle. A few domestic and imported beers (including non-alcoholic) can also be had. Rely on knowledgeable servers to steer you in the right direction for good pairings with the food.

Finally, desserts ($7-8). Though not made in-house, they are fabulous. The chocolate truffle mousse was airy and rich, sensual on the palate without being cloying, and offering intense chocolate flavor. All of this aquatic nirvana is deftly supported by general manager Tae Kim. To top it all off, Agami is open seven evenings, and late-night hours are available for after-theater/concert/movie/bar hopping. Trouble is, once you’re in this luxe environment, you may never want to leave.

M – Th, 5-1 (last order 12 a.m.); F 5 – 2 (last order 1:30 a.m.)
Sa 5 – 3 (last order 2 a.m.); Su 5 – 11 (last order 10 p.m.)