Rioja
www.jackjonesrestaurants.com
5101 N Clark, Chicago
773.275.9191
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A-
Cuisine: A Ambiance: A- Service: A

Well-known Chicago chef and restaurateur Jack Jones has put a new face on his Atlantique in Andersonville. As of this writing, its name is set to become Torrijo, a name associated with La Mancha in Spain. The room’s colors are distinctly Mediterranean—sienna, saffron, buttercup, bright sea-blue. The place is well groomed-casual, warm and comfortable. It has a real neighborhood feel, where one is at ease, whether coming in for a tapas or two, a grand dinner or a glass of sangria (white or red, plus various fruit flavors). Service is casual and friendly, and in the case of our server Carlos, very knowledgeable and displaying quintessential graciousness. The large bar is adorned with beautiful Spanish tiles and anchors the dining room in which smoking is permitted. A large separate dining room is smoke-free and equally charming.

Upon being seated, guests are presented with a basket of warm bread and a whole roasted head of garlic. Avoid the temptation of filling up on this delicious offering, ‘cause there’s lots more to come! Libations abound, with several choices of sangrias, beers, martinis and bebidas (house drinks). Additionally, there is a generous listing of mostly Spanish wines, white (try the 2004 Condes de Albarei) and red (try the 2003 tempranillo, La Reona, or the cabernet, Finca Antigua—especially good with the paella), by the glass and bottle.

The menu is extensive: cold and hot tapas ($2.95-10.95, dinner portions of some tapas available), salads and gazpacho ($2.95-6.95), Mediterranean-style pasta ($7.95-12.95), four kinds of paella ($8.95-14.95) and desserts ($3.75-6.25). Focus on the fish and seafood items, and you can’t go wrong. Chef Jack’s reputation for lovingly prepared foods from the waters is preserved in this new dining spot. The ceviche of shrimp, scallops and sole had bright citrus undertones, with minced peppers and onion, that knew their supporting role for the sweet, tender seafood elements. The seared scallops (bieiras) with pesto-toasted orzo, and the salmon a la parilla with asparagus, avocado and tomato, are not to be missed. Neither have ever been served more perfectly cooked or flavored. The dátiles rellenos (Marcona almond-stuffed Medjool dates wrapped in bacon) are good enough to make a gringo’s blood Mediterranean-hot! This is but a small sampling of the extensive menu for tapas, but they alone are worth the trip.

The chuleta de cordero (marinated and grilled lamb chops) were served quite rare and lacking the benefit of the tastes of the flavorful marinade. The paella with fresh calamari, shrimp, Andouille sausage, peppers and tomatoes arrived hot in a traditional pan, neither soupy nor excessively dry. The sausage was picante and tasty. I would have traded some of the dish’s saltiness and oil for more than the hint of saffron. But again, fish and seafood is a sure path here. Judging from the apple tart and the bread pudding, desserts are not the forte of this kitchen. If you like sweet, then go for it. (I’d rather use any extra room for another helping of ceviche.)

If the mid-weeknight crowd is any indication, our criticisms are minor, and certainly not enough to keep ‘em from coming. Nor should it keep you from beating a path to Torrijo’s door! Bueno apetito!

Open seven nights for dinner