LE LAN
www.lelanrestaurant.com
749 N Clark
312-280-9100
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A Ambiance: A Service: A

Like an orchid, for which it’s named, Le Lan promises to be a perennial favorite of Chicago diners, prized for the beauty, fragrance and ethereal tastes of its French-Vietnamese food. The restaurant was born a year ago as the brainchild of Executive Chef Roland Liccioni (formerly of Les Nomades, currently of Le Francais) and Collaborating Chef Arun Sampanthavivat (Arun’s Thai Restaurant). The kitchen operates under the gifted Chef de Cuisine, Andy Motto, protégé of Chef Roland. In order to thrive, orchids have particular growing requirements. Le Lan has also required nurturing and adjustments during its first year. The net result is a superb restaurant that has achieved culinary vision and focus, with delectable results.

The décor is a metaphor for the blending of Asian and occidental sensibilities. Pale greens on walls and in stone tile flooring, touches of bamboo, old brick wall—all overseen by a stunning hand painted dragon, ancient emblem of Vietnamese culture. The elegance of white table linens bespeaks the experience diners may expect.

Start with your favorite cocktail or beer or wine. There are some great imported French beers! The wine list focuses on French and Australian vintners, with some representation from Germany and America. Good selections are available by the glass or bottle. The staff is knowledgeable, and very helpful at making good choices to accompany the food.

Soups, salads and appetizers ($7-12) provide all-but-impossible temptation. A soup de jour will hopefully make it onto the permanent menu: pureed asparagus flavored with morels, truffles and Asian fines herbes, topped with a peekytoe crab cake. A special appetizer is also being considered for permanent status: Tribute to Thailand. Two affirmative votes here. It’s alternating pieces of cucumber roll and ravioli-style dumpling, created with indistinguishable, but distinguished, greens and herbs that create a synergy of illusive flavors! Oh, but don’t miss the Bahn Cuon: Gunthorp Farms organic pork, Vietnamese herbs and nuoc cham (dipping sauce). Going to dinner with a party of four or more may permit more tastes, or the reluctance to forfeit even a single bite of something wonderful could strain otherwise good relationships. Your call.

Entrées ($24-32) include several fish dishes, as well as one each of organic coconut chicken, roast duck breast with seared foie gras, rack of lamb with red curried loin, smoked squab, and Asian spiced beef tenderloin. The pan-seared snapper we had was perfect; the accompanying melted leeks, clams, watercress and nuage (cloud) of Yukon Gold potatoes became art on the tongue. The rack and loin of lamb with fennel salad, sweet gnocchi and eggplant chutney doesn’t get any better than this, folks.

Desserts should provide an extra degree of exaltation to a fine meal. Le Lan’s desserts deliver ($7-9). The chocolate moëlleux with Vietnamese cinnamon and thyme ice cream, the sheep milk flan with exotic fruit compote and the ice cream collection resulted in a hung jury when it was time to decide which was most sinful, and most delicious. (Besides, there were several other deserving “suspects” that weren’t tried, if you’ll pardon the pun.) A French and American cheese assortment is also available—choice of three for $11, all five for $14. Each dessert and the cheese assortment have suggested wines to accompany them.

Le Lan, the “orchid,” is now in full bloom! Enjoy its majesty. Reservations are strongly recommended, even on weeknights. A special prix fixe three-course menu is offered on Tuesday nights through August for $36. It’s a steal.