Blue Water Grill Chicago
www.brguestrestaurants.com
520 N Dearborn
312.777.1400
ITLC’s Overall Rating: B+
Cuisine: B+ Ambiance: B+ Service: A-

It’s all about the scene. Blue Water Grill (a B.R. Guest restaurant) goes for the glitz. Opened in May, it’s already packed on weeknights with the curiosity seekers and the au courant crowd, as the deafening noise level of lively conversation attests. If the name “blue water” evokes images of sunny beaches and blue waters for you, be prepared for a disconnect. Décor here is more akin to the hull of a freighter. Industrial, indeed. Bare, dark-wood tables and chairs, dark-wood floors, dark walls and low-level lighting rule. The “port holes” from this hull are two draped windows looking onto the intersecting streets outside. The second floor provides additional dining and/or private party space with its own jazz bar and live music seven nights. If you want to see what the place could look like, check out the flattering photos on the web site.

Executive Chef Dirk Flanigan and sushi chef Hiroshi Takaishi team to fill the bill with both the expected seafood and “big shoulders” meat dishes for carnivores. Appetizers ($7-15, $21 for the chilled “angry” lobster cocktail) include a respectable lobster bisque. One-ounce portions of caviar are offered at $50-85. The sushi bar offers both maki rolls ($6-12) and nigiri/sashimi ($2-4.50, mp for fatty tuna). The BBQ eel and tempura sweet potato roll is deservedly billed as a specialty. Oysters from the raw bar ($1.95-2.50) were high quality. Unfortunately, either the “shucker” had spilled all the oysters’ liquor, or the slant of the floating mound of crushed ice they were served on had “rocked the boat.” The wonderful wasabi sorbet served with them consoled. Other raw bar offerings include chilled jumbo shrimp—enormous, plump and juicy. Three chilled shellfish platters are offered for sharing, at $40, $75 and $125.

Entrées ($19-46) include the expected: salmon, halibut, sea bass, tuna, scallops. Chicken, lamb and beef are also available, including a 22-ounce bone-in ribeye. Live lobster (steamed, broiled or butter poached) can be had at $22 per pound. The evening’s special soft-shell crabs arrived plump and juicy on the inside with a hard and oily crust. The other special entrée for the evening, pan-roasted striped bass, was remarkably good, with fennel slaw, fingerling potatoes and yuzu sauce. The “simply grilled” portion of the menu offers a choice of sea scallops, King salmon, Big Eye tuna or Alaskan halibut ($20-23).

Unlike Flanigan and Takaishi, pastry chef Elissa Narrow (formerly of Blackbird) gets no billing on either the menu or the web site. Unfortunate oversight, since her desserts provide the brightest spot for the establishment. Ordering extra desserts ($7-9), just to sample a wider array, turned out to be a delicious pitfall! The “zesty lemon” is a brulée tart with vanilla frozen yogurt and berry-mint marmalade. It is exquisitely more than the sum of its parts. Try the banana trio and you’ll never again be satisfied with a banana split. The “spring crumble” of rhubarb, blueberries and strawberries reached a high note with cinnamon-berry swirl ice cream. Several flavors of house made ice creams and sorbets can be had. Next trip, I’ll have the “slice of blue water,” a 9-layer chocolate cake with fudge and marshmallow ice cream. Yum!

The wine and beverage list is varied and ample, including several specialty cocktails. In addition to a nice selection of wines by the glass or bottle, a dozen chilled (and one hot) sakes are offered. There is also a nice selection of dessert wines by both glass and bottle. Service is cordial and knowledgeable. (That the kitchen can be slow getting the food out is no reflection on service.) Bussers sometimes appear to be unclear of their role rather than inattentive.

Blue Water Grill is still very new on the scene. It has a good concept and a prime location. Once it gets its land legs, it may continue to reel in a good portion of Chicago’s upscale foodies.