X/O
3441 N Halsted St , Chicago
773.348.9696
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A-
Cuisine: A Ambiance: A- Service: A-

This is an eXtraOrdinary new, upscale, neighborhood spot in Boyz Town, where the hip and the straight (if not straight-laced) amicably commingle. Proprietors Mark Liberson and Mark Kwiatkowski draw on their long experience in the hospitality industry to create a space that fosters fine dining, an active lounge scene and a welcoming atmosphere. In the spring, look for the addition of a spacious backyard patio. The various spaces sport clean lines and rich colors, framed by Brazilian hardwoods in oxblood tones.

There’s room at the table for everyone, and something at table for everyone. Chef Bob Zrenner brings to bear his experience from some of the city’s best kitchens to create a “global tapas” menu, where items are appetizer-sized and meant for sharing, while leaving the Spanish influence to other restaurants. The menu is divided into three courses ($5.5-12.5), ranging from light to hearty options. Choosing three items per person (plus desserts by Pastry Chef Jordan Rappaport) is a good bet. First courses include East vs. West Oysters (three each) served with remarkably refreshing cucumber and horseradish-tomato sorbets, as well as a traditional mignonette sauce. The grilled octopus salad, served chilled with vinaigrette is noteworthy. The spicy rock shrimp and rice noodle salad delightfully layers flavors and textures.

The second course offerings sport a customer-favorite shrimp and scallops tossed with chili lime vinaigrette and accompanied by a seaweed salad, green onions, carrots and toasted peanuts. The theme of well-considered layering of flavors and textures pervades the menu. The East Coast style lump crabmeat cakes are all crab with no filling, served with two sauces and roasted veggies.

From third course choices, jumbo sea scallops with pumpkin dumplings are enticing. The Vietnamese spicy duck leg with roasted Korean sweet potatoes and a hint of Thai chilis is a hit. The braised lamb shank with lemongrass jus is tasty, if not as moist as one might wish. It’s a good idea to order the “three way vegetarian” (roasted, grilled and pureed) to share as accompaniment to the third courses. Next trip will provide the chance to try the ½ pound grilled ribeye or the seared Hudson Valley foie gras, or maybe the petite lobster tail and claw, or maybe… There’s lots more to tempt and please every palate.

Sommelier Amy Lewis has created an eclectic wine list from around the world. Notably, she offers several flights of wine with 2.5 ounce tastes or 5-ounce glasses. There’s even a “Sassy Flight” of two whites and two reds. All flight selections are available by the bottle, along with many other selections. And there’s only one other place in the city that you can get Krug Champagne by the glass! (Champagne cocktails are house specialties.)

For dessert, don’t miss the lemon meringue—tangy, soft and topped with cloud-like meringue. And with the vanilla mascarpone parfait and chocolate soup, you could get lucky for the night! And the chocolate orgasm? Take your chances, or play it safe with the artisanal cheese presentation. Service is cordial and reflects knowledge of the food, making it easy to overlook any lack of finesse. The food is delicious and a good value. The venue is worth the visit, whether you’re dressed up or dressed down. The place is eXtraOrdinary.

Dinner Daily (Except Tu) 5:30 – 2; until 3 on Sat