TRIO ATELIER
www.trio-restaurant.com
Hinman Ave. , Evanston
847.733.8746
ITLC’s Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A Ambiance: A Service: A

Everything’s up-to-date in Evanston! This is Trio’s third incarnation, now Trio Atelier. It is given new life by a “trio” of main players: long-time owner Henry Adaniya, established Pastry Chef Mary McMahon, and new player Chef Dale Levitski. Atelier is French for workshop. In this rather erudite suburb, it might come a bit closer to meaning revolution. Bare concrete floors, bags of salt lining one wall, “dream-like thought images projected on video screens” boldly brandishing all their wiring and hardware, a garden room cum “pool house” that is reminiscent of a Dali painting. Stated goal achieved: to present diners with…a visually arresting environment…. It’s all oh so Soho.

New life doesn’t end with the environment, however. The restaurant aims also to “maintain the culinary quality that diners have come to expect.” It hits the mark. Chef Dale Levitski has designated sections of the menu as small, medium and large serving sizes. Diners are encouraged to pick and choose as they wish from these categories. And the table setting encourages sharing among diners, set only with several forks (and river stones) in the center of the table as diners approach.

Small plates ($4-12) include a superb brandade of salt cod. This is a dish that has fallen into obscurity, apparently awaiting the genius of Chef Dale for its rebirth. The Cashel bleu cheese profiterole is fabulous. The buckwheat crepe with creamed leeks and rapini is bittersweet and subtle—just right. And yes, there is cleverness: flight of salt; green egg and ham; Parmesan chips and dip.

Medium plates ($7-12). The croque monsieur is the best I’ve ever eaten, period. And the relish of chopped raisins and coarse ground mustard finally give raisins a veritable raison d’être. The duck confit displays the authentic earthiness of preserved duck and is visually akin to a rillette. Many other dishes tempt: curried shellfish, rabbit virtini, panzanella, Parmesan cheesecake…

Large plates ($16-23) include meat (grilled flatiron steak), poultry (roasted poussin—young chicken), fish (grilled wild salmon), pork tenderloin, and a vegetarian French gnocchi (made with pâte à choux rather than potato). And “sides” are not to be overlooked ($6), including real French fries. (Owner Henry quipped: “I like foams, but you can only eat so many of them. Now I’ve got a real deep-fryer in the kitchen, and I’m gonna have French fries!”) Go, Henry!

Another of Henry’s notable contributions is the wine and beverage list. Befitting the food menu, the wine list offers a very respectable selection of wines in 3-ounce and 6-ounce pours, as well as a substantial list by the bottle.

And what’s a good meal without dessert ($6-12)? Pastry Chef Mary McMahon is busier than ever in this new “workshop.” Go light: lemongrass float or a taste of crème brûlée. Go bold: dense chocolate cake with peanut butter sorbet and bananas. Go traditional: housemade ice creams and sorbets or a cheese plate trio with plum jam. Go all the way: add a glass of dessert wine or an after dinner drink from the varied offerings. But whatever you choose, do go to Trio Atelier.

Dinner only; closed Monday

Tu – Th 5:30-9; F 5:30-10; Sa 5-10; Su 5-9