Vermilion
10 West Hubbard Street, Chicago
312.527.4060
ITLC's Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A   Ambiance: A   Service: A-

What! You haven't been to Vermilion yet? Hurry! Vermilion: scarlet red, and in this case, a new, red-hot dining spot in the River North district. After only a few months of operation, Vermilion has already (and deservedly) garnered accolades from preeminent national media sources, including inclusion in the Best New Restaurants lists of both Chicago magazine and Wine Enthusiast. It's a prime example that fusion cuisine can be credible and exhilarating. Suspend your disbelief and savor this exquisite "arranged marriage" of contemporary (East) Indian and Latin American cuisines. Managing Partner Rohini Dey and Executive Chef Maneet Chauhan mirror and broaden the redefinition of Indian femininity that diners enjoy in the current display of photos by India's leading fashion photographer, Farrokh Chothia. The dining room is sleek yet comfy, black-and-white themed with one big, splashy red wall and a few antique touches, like the carved wood bar. Hot!

The menu offers tapas, including seasonal dishes ($7-12), signature preparations ($21-30) and standard, as well as seasonal, entrées ($11-32). Desserts ($8-10) include "Vermilion Hedonism," which will satisfy the most inveterate chocoholic. The mojito cheesecake deserves a more descriptive moniker; it's a sensuous, light and flavorful delight that avoids the heaviness of typical cheesecake. Full bar service and an affordable wine list (with numerous non-standard pairing opportunities) round out the set for a great evening of dining.

We were so tempted by the "autumn tapas" that we ordered, and enjoyed, all of them. The ceviche with a tangy pomegranate and cumin "liquado," starfruit and roasted pumpkin seeds was alluring with exotic seasoning. One could make a meal of the paneer (Indian-style cheese) fritters with mint chutney, which were chickpea batter-fried and served with chipotle mole. Chicken pastels steamed in banana leaves with chayote cumin chutney are sweet-savory and aromatic.

Entrées continue the fusion of Latin ingredients and Indian preparations. Tandoori skirt steak comes with sautéed garlic spinach and fried plantain. Blackened tamarind ribs are served with yucca fries and sweet corn salsa. The autumn special of plantain-crusted fish with aloo gobi (Asian potato) and cauliflower subzee (stew) was crispy on the outside and steamy-moist inside. The entrée offerings go on and on-chicken, lamb, dhal of black lentils and smoky-fresh, hot naan (tandoori oven-baked yeast bread).

Take a copy of the glossaries from your favorite Indian and Spanish cookbooks, or quiz your server. (Service is friendly and informal, even if not yet as refined as the food and décor.) Or just dive in and take your chances. Chances are, it will be delicious. Vermilion elevates and marries both Indian and Latin cuisines, achieving new heights while avoiding the clichés.

Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm
Dinner: Sunday-Thursday 5:00pm-10:00pm
Friday-Saturday 5:00pm-11:00pm