BOKA
1729 North Halsted Street, Chicago
312.337.6070
www.bokachicago.com
ITLC's Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A+   Ambiance: A   Service: A

Co-owners Kevin BOehm and Rob KAtz (BOKA) have pooled their extensive experience in the business to create one of Chicago's most exciting dining spots. Located in the North Halsted theater district, BOKA is an upscale and comfortable oasis. It caters to the before- and after-theater crowd, as well as the neighborhood and destination diners. Opened fall 2003, it has already made it on a top 10 list and a top 20 list for new Chicago restaurants, and probably deserves even higher ranking!

Outside and inside space is mediated gradually. Enter along a walkway lined with a sparkling, lighted water trough. Choose to lounge in a comfortable outside space, or a comfy-chaired lounge area inside. Dine inside or out, seasonally. The inside dining room is visually stunning, enveloping diners in colors of aubergine, persimmon, curry and lemon sabayon. One wall is covered with a backlit fabric sculpture reminiscent of a set from Cirque du Soleil. Outside, the walled garden provides seasonal al fresco dining in a smart-casual space with plenty of charm of its own.

The stage is aptly set for the star of BOKA: Chef Giuseppe Scurato's American Progressive cuisine. Impressive as "Pepe's" vita is (in San Francisco at Postrio, and chef de cuisine in Chicago at both Spago and mk), tasting his cooking will be recommendation aplenty. Small hot and cold plates ($7-16), large plates ($17-32), a raw bar at market price (the freshest oysters anywhere, with a soft and elegant mignonette), and pastry chef Leticia Zenteno's quintessential desserts, provide ample diversity and a plethora of temptations.

Among the small plates, the grilled baby octopus with preserved lemon, Niçoise olives and saffron aioli was perfect—tender, smoky octopus with alluring hints of acid, sweetness and spice. The seared Hudson Valley foie gras rivals any in the city. It's accompanied by duck confit, parsnip puree and chips, pistachios and fresh Bing cherries. (Be discreet, but DO take a squeegee to get every drop of sauce.) An amuse of Atlantic salmon tartare makes ordering it as an appetizer a must next time. Scallops, mussels, Jonah crab cakes and several salads are inspired.

Large plates cover all the bases (meat, poultry and fish) with exquisite-sounding combinations. The pan roasted Alaskan halibut with artichokes and prosciutto di Parma brought a tear of joy. Hardwood grilled trout was unspeakably fresh. The carefully-crafted wine list lives up to its mission statement: small production and boutique wines with which you will fall in love. (The '00 Loimer, Gruner Veltliner at $36 was perfect with the fish.)

The whole show is pulled together by the affable and professional staff. Server Josh epitomizes the team: knowledgeable, kind and savvy. Make a beeline to BOKA.

Dinner: Nightly from 5:00pm
Kitchen closes 10:00pm weeknights,
11:00pm weekends
Bar open till 2:00am weekends