Wines of La Rioja, Spain
by Jim Price & Don Newcomb

What was the upshot of a four-day marathon tasting of more than 200 wines from La Rioja in LogroŇo in the merry month of May? A considerably deepened appreciation for the great range of styles and quality, from swill to heavenly nectar, in the wines from this region of Spain. We also renewed our appreciation for the wisdom of pairing wines with the foods for which they were created. (They don't "produce" wine in La Rioja. They "elaborate" wine, suggesting a much more intimate relationship between the gifts of nature-sun, soil, water, grapes-and the people who work their craft.) The main grape is tempranillo, used exclusively, as well as blended with other varieties.

Wines (we're talking only reds here, though there is a small production of whites) that are made in the traditional style for Rioja, in general, require considerably longer-than-average aging before they're ready to be drunk. They tend also to be dedicated food wines rather than sipping wines. In response to more modern tastes, led by the California fashion, many bodegas (vineyards/vintners) in La Rioja are now making wines that require less aging and can be enjoyed as sipping wines, with or without food. They generally present much more forward fruit (especially black fruit) and, if any, less leather and cedar finish. Which is better? What the drinker prefers, so what follows is blatant bias on our parts.

We found that we tended to prefer the more traditional style. Of course it's more expensive to make, given the extra time required in the "nursery." The result, however, can be wines of great depth, complexity and structure, wines that form a lover's passionate bond with foods, especially of Mediterranean style. At the same time, as we looked back over our tasting notes, it seems that there were almost as many high marks for new style and "ultramodern" wines from the region.

So what are you supposed to do? Develop a good relationship with the wine buyer at your favorite wine shop(s). Take advice, and then taste and decide for yourself what you like, remembering that Riojas, more than most California reds, often require food as a partner to bring out the best in them. Here's a good tip from Michael Schachner, former senior editor of Wine Enthusiast and fellow-taster on our recent trip: "Notice that I'm very high on the 2001 vintage in Rioja, that you can quote me on." Also, the winemaker/co-owner of one of our very favorite bodegas, Finca Allende, takes no credit for the wines from this great vintage, saying "2001 grapes make wine, not the winemaker."

A quick search of Sam's website and Binny's website revealed a good selection of Rioja wines, though only a small percentage of bodegas is represented in Chicago. Some of our favorites, that are available in the Chicago market, were LAN, Finca Allende, Marques de Caceras and Montecillo. Keep in mind that a vintner may make several different wines, some of which you may love, while others you may not. Different vintages of the same wine can taste very different as well. Explore. Experiment. Make note of your winners. Of the 200+ wines we tasted, our favorite was the 1982 Montecillo Gran Reserva. (The '94 Gran Reserva, available at Sam's, is a bargain at $27.) Karen McNeil's The Wine Bible has a good discussion of Rioja wines.