Fuse
71 East Wacker Drive,
adjacent to Hotel 71
312.462.7071
www.hotel71.com/eat
ITLC's Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A   Ambiance: A+   Service: A

Opened in February, Fuse is a dynamite restaurant located adjacent to Hotel 71. While serving hotel guests, it also stands admirably on its own merits. Chicago restaurateur Richard Mott and accomplished Chicago chef Eric Aubriot’s collaboration has already ignited fiery enthusiasm for this hot new spot. And fine dining is as much about ambiance as good food. Chicago designer Nancy Warren has created one of the most stunning dining spaces in Chicago. In fact, the space might be viewed as an Alice-in-Wonderland mirror of the cityscape viewed through the large windows of the dining room and bar. It is at once feminine and masculine, curvilinear and angular, geometric and organic. As with music, this is a design that must be experienced firsthand, because it cannot be reduced to words.

Food arrives at table with equal attention to aesthetics—reminiscent of cuisine minceur, but more. Carefully crafted blends of color, form, texture and tastes; a kind of distillation that results in pure pleasure for the palate. The somewhat minimalist menu nonetheless manages to cover all the bases, with each dish carefully conceived to satisfy. On the dinner menu there are ten cold and hot appetizers ($7-14). On one of our visits, the soup du jour was an ethereal purée of artichoke, accompanied by the explosive taste of a wonderfully textured jewel of tomato confit. The seared yellow fin tuna was elevated by the pungent taste of a fine olive tapenade and a salad of arugula and haricots vert. The accompanying shot of celery juice posed a dilemma; so fresh when sipped solo, but enhancing if drizzled over the salad. Who can resist poached green asparagus with morels and bone marrow cream sauce, or housemade chèvre ravioli with pancetta, tomato concassé, asparagus and parsley juice?

Nine main courses ($19-28) include a tempting vegetarian option of housemade papardelle in Parmesan broth with tomato, asparagus and shiitake. The sautéed venison of highest quality is pushed over the top with a coffee and black pepper sauce. Pan-seared snapper is well married to wilted romaine, shallot confit and vegetable brunoise with saffron emulsion. Lamb loin, sweetbreads, black cod, braised short ribs, and more, deserve equal attention. Cuisine is amply supported by an international wine list, including many by the glass, and full bar service.

Pastry Chef David Schuminsky’s desserts (nine of them @ $9), including housemade sorbets and ice creams, are welcome foes for those determined to eschew temptation. Even the most stalwart dieter may succumb to the warm chocolate cake and Tahitian vanilla ice cream. The adventurous will be rewarded for their choice of the unusual Cabrales blue (cheese) shortcakes with honey-poached pears and candied pecans. You won’t have to sing Will Young’s lyrics: “Come on, baby, light my fire.” It’s bound to happen when you visit Fuse.

Dinner: Sunday-Thursday 5:30pm-10:30pm
Friday-Saturday 5:30pm-11:30pm
Lunch: Monday-Thursady 11:30am-2:30pm
Friday-Saturday 12:00pm-2:00pm
Breakfast: Daily 6:00am-10:30am
Bar closes: Sunday-Thursday at 12:00am
Friday-Saturday at 2:00am