Saiko
1307 South Wabash Avenue
312.922.2222
ITLC's Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A   Ambiance: A   Service: A

Saiko (accent on the second syllable) in Japanese means “one of a kind.” For some, the more familiar Hitchcock pronunciation (read “psycho”) might seem more appropriate. This latest and recently opened creation of partners Jerry Kleiner and Howard Davis is one of a kind amidst their South Loop empire, in that its focus is sushi and steaks. The room, however, is a de rigueur Kleiner kaleidoscope of industrial minimalism, thematic accents and mural-size wall paintings—fishes, female nudes, Jimi Hendrix and more. (Think décor sibling of Marché, Opera, Red Light and Gioco.) Add to the mix smart, savvy service staff, loud rock music and a happening crowd in this up-and-coming area of the city, and you’ve got the scene. But glitz and counter-chic alone do not a restaurant make. The menu offerings and the quality of what arrives at the table here stand up to the other assaults on the senses, leading altogether to sensory satiety (and perhaps, for more sedate diners, overload).

Executive Chef Paul Wildermuth and his team have created an extensive and enticing menu with a Japanese theme and French variations. Nigiri (traditional sushi, $2-5 per piece) is appetizing. Don’t miss the saba (mackerel). Traditional rolls ($4-6) are well made. Saiko rolls ($9-15) throw tradition to the wind, employing such unlikely ingredients as chipotle and other chilis, brioche and onion marmalade. There’s even a prosciutto nigiri roll with melon and Port wine reduction. First courses ($7-17) include a delicious nasu-kyuri; a Japanese eggplant salad. There’s also a royal red shrimp salad with yuzu-citrus vinaigrette, a ceviche, lobster and port gyoza (AKA pot sticker), among others. The tempura on our visit was undercooked and oily. “From the Stoves” ($17-99) provides several steaks as well as teriyaki chicken, ahi tuna and foie gras, Norwegian salmon with braised red cabbage, and a classic breaded pork chop with apple curry. The evening’s special was superb: blue nose grouper—meaty taste and texture with exotic seasonings. The $99 price tag is for an opulent 16 oz wasabi-scented Kobe beef. Sides ($3-6) straddle the oriental-occidental span with twice-baked potato, gomae (spinach with sesame-peanut sauce), miso soup and others.

Save room for dessert ($7-9), especially the exquisite wasabi-spiked green apple sorbet with lemon shortcake and the banana split with house-made ice creams. (Ask for the sorbet solo as an intermezzo!) Of course there’s chocolate, crème brulée and even an espresso charlotte. Food is enhanced with a full-service bar, including a long list of sakes, available by the glass and 300 ml bottle. The Star-filled Night sake’s taste is as satisfying as its name is evocative. A substantial international wine list provides good choices by the glass as well as bottle. Saiko lives up to its pedigree, and to the innuendo of its name. Go crazy!

Sunday-Wednesday 5:30pm-10:00pm
Thursday 5:30pm-11:00pm
Friday-Saturday 5:30pm-12:00am