NoMI
800 North Michigan Avenue
Park Hyatt Chicago
312.239.4030
www.nomirestaurant.com
ITLC's Overall Rating: A+
Cuisine: A+   Ambiance: A+   Service: A+

NoMI may be as close to perfection as any restaurant comes in Chicago. Its own elevator whisks you from the lobby of the Park Hyatt up to the seventh floor. Drift slowly through ever-widening spaces en route to the stunning dining room and its enormous windows, affording diners an expansive view of North Michigan (NoMI) Avenue. Beautiful by day, magical by night. Designer Tony Chi has created an environment at once modern, lean and très chic. The recent installation of a commissioned Chihuly ceiling sconce (Lumière d'Ambre, composed of seven "chandeliers") is a stroke of genius.

It is easy to espouse a philosophy, but much more of a challenge to live up to it. Chef Sandro Gamba delivers on his promise: "...The objective [of my cooking] is to highlight intrinsic flavors of [highest-quality] ingredients, and this exploration humbly expresses my love of the land's bounty: simplicity, elegance, and freshness...for the pleasure of your palate." A native of France, Gamba has been associated with luminary chefs, such as Lenotre, Vergé, Robuchon and Ducasse. Nonetheless, he is his own man. He prefers elegant presentation to painterly plates. He highlights the essence of superb ingredients rather than indulging in the expedient display of ill-disciplined "creativity." It is for very good reason that he was named to Food & Wine magazine's coveted list of "America's Best New Chefs."

A recent dinner will remain a cherished memory. The cold and hot appetizers ($14-19) that we chose included: peeky toe crab salad with a sensuously silken avocado cream; a scallop tart with cream braised leeks, glazed chestnuts, truffle beurre blanc and a flawless scallop sandwiched with slices of black truffle; seared Hudson Valley foie gras with a ragoét of duck confit and glazed quince; and a sublime white truffle risotto ($40). The entrées ($26-38) we chose included sumptuous potato crusted cod, distinguished by accompanying roasted Marcona almonds, mushroom ragout, pearl onions and golden raisins. The pan roasted venison loin could be the finest red meat either of us has ever eaten, surpassing the best qualities of beef and lamb; the beluga lentil flan served with it would alone be reason enough to order it again. These were hard choices that necessitated the passing up of Oklahoma bobwhite quail, Summerfield rack of lamb, and others—until our next visit.

And yes, there was, thankfully, room for dessert ($9-11). The warm Guanaja chocolate tart was quintessential Valrhona flavor. The variation of bourbon and tahitian vanilla was actually four desserts on one plate. No description will suffice except "celestial."

Sommelier Robert Jovic oversees a twelve-hundred-label wine list that is updated daily, including excellent choices by the glass. Rely on his expertise. His sole objective is the diner's satisfaction. Superb service at NoMI takes its deserved place alongside ambience and food. Graciousness and excellence are the hallmarks "for the pleasure of your palate." At every turn, NoMI enthralls.

Breakfast: Monday-Friday 6:30am-10:30am
Saturday-Sunday 7:00am-10:30am
Brunch: Saturday-Sunday 10:30am-2:30pm
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30am-2:30pm
Dinner: 5:30pm-10:00pm