Avec
615 West Randolph Street
312.377.2002
www.avecrestaurant.com
ITLC's Overall Rating: A
Cuisine: A   Ambiance: A-   Service: A

Avec: French, meaning with. It's a French-American bistro (AKA wine bar) where you share sun-drenched food and wines with friends, sitting at communal tables for six or eight with strangers. To enjoy it fully, order several "small plates" and one or two or several "large plates" to share. Unless you go early, you'll wait for a table (reservations are not accepted) and you'll find yourself amidst a deafening din of revelers getting high on the best "Mediterranean soul food" in Chicago. This instantly successful restaurant is the project of Executive Chef Paul Kahan and partners from the venerable Blackbird restaurant. In fact, each of our visits was graced with the presence of several high-profile chefs, making Avec a chef's restaurant. The room looks like an ultra-modern closet of red cedar walls, hickory floors and oak tables. The back wall is composed of racks of empty, back-lit green wine bottles, bottoms up. The visual and philosophical focus is on diners, food and drink.

The concept for Chef de cuisine Koren Grieveson's food is distinctly Mediterranean—ingredients, seasonings, preparations, presentations—not unlike a tapas bar, but finer and with international representation. There are sixteen or so "small plates" ($5-13) from which to choose. When they're available, never pass up the pan-fried sardines with crispy jamon Serrano (ham) and olive tapenade! The oil-braised octopus with crushed tomatoes, baby spinach and pancetta vinaigrette is meaty, tender, moist and piquant. The duck confit with Forelle pears is not to be missed. Housemade chorizo and mussel stew with potatoes and piquillos (small, sweet red peppers from the Basque country) are a perfect marriage of flavors and textures. "Large plates" ($13-20) include the signature bourride, a poached fish stew with fennel, garlic, orange rind and saffron. Here, the traditional croutons and aïoli are served on the side to keep the stew clear and clean. Add to taste. The bucatini is akin to Alfredo, but has to be the richest rendition in town. Wood oven roasted Prairie Grove Farm pork shoulder will have you crying "Encore!" as will the "deluxe" focaccia with taleggio cheese, truffle oil and fresh herbs. Astonishingly, there is a daily selection of housemade salamis with garniture. All are delicious. After (or during) dinner, choose any three cheeses ($12) from the cave, with collections from Italy, Spain and France. Don't forget to save room for dessert ($4-7). The tangerine semifreddo is cool and refreshing. The oven roasted figs with clove ice cream are fabulous. All ice creams and sorbets are housemade.

Partner Eduard Seitan has created a food-friendly wine list of value-driven selections drawn from Spain, Italy, France and Portugal. Three dozen are available by the 250 ml carafe, making it easy to pair several wines with various food choices. A good selection of sherry, port, Madeira and beers is also available.

Kitchen: Friday-Saturday 3:30pm-1:00am
Sunday-Thursday 3:30pm-12:00am
Sunday 3:30pm-10:00pm
Bar: Monday-Saturday 3:30pm-2:00am
Sunday 3:30pm-12:00am